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For the people that do stick fight, what kind of stick fighting do you do, and what do you do to train for a stick fight?
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Kali. Sinawali for hand speed, bags for power, and a lot of full- and semi-contact fighting to actually be able to apply what I learn. I'm definitely not an expert though, so if you're looking for a routine, you'd probably do better checking with someone else. -
at my school we do lucay lucay kali. and while i have never trained for a stick fight we do single and double stick drills, knife drills, knife vs stick, stick or knife vs empty hand etc. at home i train on a heavy bag for power and accuracy
thanks,
MikeComment
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LOTS and Lots of footwork drills. Various puke type drills. Heavy bag for full power.
Targeting: Get into an enclosed area that you can move around in and not mind bouncing tennis balls off the walls. A smaller area is better because it will force you to move and react faster as the ball comes whizzing by. Starting hitting the balls with your stick. Try to let the ball bounce only one before you hit it again. It's hard at first if you have never done it, but soon you'll be able to target and make contact consistently. It develops hand eye coordination to a very high level.
Second. I made a stick dummy that pivots in two places and has holes drilled at various angles & locations on the trunk which I can place sticks. From the sticks I hang rope that I thread through a tennis ball and knot at the bottom (then wrap in electrical tape to keep it place). This way I can place sticks around it at varying levels with the targets hanging at different heights. I place the dummy in the center of my training area and work around it, ranging in and out while targeting the balls. Because the dummy pivots when struck, it causes all the targets to move. The goal is to hit them while they're in motion. If you try to move into corto, beware, because the dummy pivots, you might get hit from one of the other sticks or hanging targets, which is all part of the fun. Or you can put a staff through a hole and have a partner manipulate the dummy while you work it. Again, this develops excellent hand-eye coordination. Taking out someone's weapon hand becomes MUCH easier once you've worked these for a while.
And last but not least, get out there and bang sticks. The best way to get good at stickfighting is to do a lot of stickfighting.
My $.02
WilliamComment
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I mostly fight semi-contact, but haven't done it in a while. My old fight partner and I would be a solid, big bruise by the time we stopped for the night.. It was semi-contact, but our sticks were heavy, and only lightly padded..
We get together and bang now and then, but not 3-4 times a week like before..
I used to do the standard routine of footwork drills, sumbrada, and all that jazz..
Now its mostly just fighting and shadowboxing. When I shadowbox, I try to make certain my movements actually apply to real stickfighting..I swing with power in a fashion that resembles how we move when we fight.. instead of doing the pretty flippy swishy strikes... I'd hit the heavy bag, but haven't found a heavy bag solution in my apartment yet..Comment
I'd hit the heavy bag, but haven't found a heavy bag solution in my apartment yet..
Go check out the "Help Fairtex 8' pole bag" and the "50lb punching bag" threads in the Thai Boxing forum. That might give you some ideas.
William
Go check out the "Help Fairtex 8' pole bag" and the "50lb punching bag" threads in the Thai Boxing forum. That might give you some ideas.
William
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thanks
will do so now
will do so now
Comment
So are there any Dog Bros or JKDUnlimited guys here? I'm wondering, and thinking about trying a Gathering. What kind of stuff does Top,Crafty,Salty do? Burt?
How often do you train/fight?
How often do you train/fight?
Comment
I recommend going down to Inosanto's academy and doing Guro Crafty Dog's Saturday class, that's what I did before fighting at the Gathering. Guro Crafty is a great guy and could show you more things than I could possibly say in this forum. Barring that, practice roofblocks (for God's sake protect your head with that stick!), getting your legs and feet away from an oncoming stick, triangle footwork and hitting a tire with your basic x, over and over and over again. An old tire lasts longer and is much cheaper than a bag.
Like batting practice, hit accurate and hit hard. Try heavy sticks, axe handles and lead pipes but be careful and dont do it so fast you blow your rotator cuff. Learn to grapple with your stick and learn to let go of it when the time comes.
For sparring equipment, we use fencing masks, street hockey gloves and foam sticks, then rattan when we get serious, no body armor. I have a tendency to use heavier gloves because I am an artist and my hands are my livelihood. We got pretty good at giving each other bruises and nasty welts with the all foam, soft core sticks, so imagine my terror when we went rattan.
"Be the feeder" (thanks russ and tuhon rafael) and sumbrada works when you train it alive.
-Carlo
Like batting practice, hit accurate and hit hard. Try heavy sticks, axe handles and lead pipes but be careful and dont do it so fast you blow your rotator cuff. Learn to grapple with your stick and learn to let go of it when the time comes.
For sparring equipment, we use fencing masks, street hockey gloves and foam sticks, then rattan when we get serious, no body armor. I have a tendency to use heavier gloves because I am an artist and my hands are my livelihood. We got pretty good at giving each other bruises and nasty welts with the all foam, soft core sticks, so imagine my terror when we went rattan.
"Be the feeder" (thanks russ and tuhon rafael) and sumbrada works when you train it alive.
-Carlo
Last edited by cocoy; 12-23-2002, 07:50 PM.
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You might want to visit the Dog Brothers Forum. Lots of good information. While you're at it, consider joining DBMAA and gain access to even more good stuff.
Gerald Boggs
Candidate Heretic Dog
Gerald Boggs
Candidate Heretic Dog
Comment
Roll Call
Hey Stick 77,
Nice forum! I'm a stickfighter myself. Hope to see this thread grow in the future. I'm looking for some good stickfighters myself to train with. Well adios, and good luck brother.
Later,
StickS
Hey Stick 77,
Nice forum! I'm a stickfighter myself. Hope to see this thread grow in the future. I'm looking for some good stickfighters myself to train with. Well adios, and good luck brother.
Later,
StickS
Comment
I found this, I wrote in 1999 or 2000. I still feel pretty much the same way. Although, I think we have better and more realistic drills now than back than.
Stickfighting Ranges and Transitional Ranges
1. Long range
- Protecting your head
- Protecting your hand
- Protecting your legs
2. Middle Range (Transitional range)
- Closing the gap
- Accepting/countering the close
3. Clinch Range
- Trapping
- Bayonet Style
- Ambidexterity
- Disarms
4. Takedowns/Throws (Transitional range)
5. Stickgrappling
- Groundwork-Striking and Submissions
- Escaping and Standing
WAYS TO TRAIN RANGES AND TRANSITIONAL
Long range work involves some drills using various protective
equipment and hard energy on the outside range. Alot of evasion, and
hand hits.
Middle range (Closing/Opening) work involves drills using various
protective equipment and progressively build up the intensity to work
closing the gap against resisting energy. Even though this is a
transitional range (IMO), it is one of the most stressed things to
train. This range is where someone is between charging in from long range and standing in front of the opponent, or the place you would "kangaroo" jump in to hit someones legs and than jump back out. Here you went long-medium-long.
Clinch range works alot of positional sparring, with light strikes
put in. Positional sparring develops trapping and disarming. Light strikes keep it realistic. Alot of bayonet type techniques are utilized like double handed thrust and punyo punches and ambidextory utilized because anywhere from 1 to 4 sticks can be involved and both hands need to be working with each other. This structure is also played alot of attention to.
Takedown/Throws range is the other transitional range. Transitional
meaning it is something that only happens for a second in the fight.
Not alot of emphasis is placed here, because a strong clinch
structure can determine how things go to the ground, or open back up.
Stickgrappling works alot of positional grappling utilizing the
sticks for pressure chokes, etc. As with grappling, positioning and
relaxing are stressed, and it isn't uncommon to see one fighter place
his weapon down somewhere to gain his desired position on the ground
before picking it back up and using his stick. Disarms take a strong
emphasis in this range, but more so clinch range.
Long Range, Clinch Range, and Ground are what I consider the three
main ranges. Meaning that alot of time is spent in these ranges so
this is usually where fights will end.
Closing/Opening Range and Takedown/Throws Range are what I consider
transitional range and are more so something that you do rather than
a particular range. For example, you are only in the closing range
(charging roof block/deflection/whatever) for a second before you
either clinch or hit him while he is peddling backwards. You are in
closing range if you are closing against him/her or if he/she is
closing against you. Similarly, Takedowns and Throws Range only
happens for a second, and is something that is done in transition
from the standing clinch to the ground.
After doing #1, students should be able to long-range spar, no
closing.
After doing #2 and #3, students should be able to spar long range,
plus closing and stopping the fight once a clinch is secure.
After doing #4, and #5, students should be able to spar and set the
"rules" for themselves. Sparring is not mandatory, but it's there if
the student wants it, and these 5 steps should help someone to feel
fairly comfortable, from there they work the next step, some
different things.
My personal strategy is to fight at the outside, and if I can't take
him out there, to close and hit him, but if he is good at countering
the close, to keep in clinch and punish him till he either gives up,
I can trap and continue striking him, or till I can open us up a
little to hit him. If he has a strong clinch structure, then it's
down to the ground we go for good positioning and either submission
or strikes, ex: scarf hold and 15-17 punyos to the face will do
nicely.
Stickfighting Ranges and Transitional Ranges
1. Long range
- Protecting your head
- Protecting your hand
- Protecting your legs
2. Middle Range (Transitional range)
- Closing the gap
- Accepting/countering the close
3. Clinch Range
- Trapping
- Bayonet Style
- Ambidexterity
- Disarms
4. Takedowns/Throws (Transitional range)
5. Stickgrappling
- Groundwork-Striking and Submissions
- Escaping and Standing
WAYS TO TRAIN RANGES AND TRANSITIONAL
Long range work involves some drills using various protective
equipment and hard energy on the outside range. Alot of evasion, and
hand hits.
Middle range (Closing/Opening) work involves drills using various
protective equipment and progressively build up the intensity to work
closing the gap against resisting energy. Even though this is a
transitional range (IMO), it is one of the most stressed things to
train. This range is where someone is between charging in from long range and standing in front of the opponent, or the place you would "kangaroo" jump in to hit someones legs and than jump back out. Here you went long-medium-long.
Clinch range works alot of positional sparring, with light strikes
put in. Positional sparring develops trapping and disarming. Light strikes keep it realistic. Alot of bayonet type techniques are utilized like double handed thrust and punyo punches and ambidextory utilized because anywhere from 1 to 4 sticks can be involved and both hands need to be working with each other. This structure is also played alot of attention to.
Takedown/Throws range is the other transitional range. Transitional
meaning it is something that only happens for a second in the fight.
Not alot of emphasis is placed here, because a strong clinch
structure can determine how things go to the ground, or open back up.
Stickgrappling works alot of positional grappling utilizing the
sticks for pressure chokes, etc. As with grappling, positioning and
relaxing are stressed, and it isn't uncommon to see one fighter place
his weapon down somewhere to gain his desired position on the ground
before picking it back up and using his stick. Disarms take a strong
emphasis in this range, but more so clinch range.
Long Range, Clinch Range, and Ground are what I consider the three
main ranges. Meaning that alot of time is spent in these ranges so
this is usually where fights will end.
Closing/Opening Range and Takedown/Throws Range are what I consider
transitional range and are more so something that you do rather than
a particular range. For example, you are only in the closing range
(charging roof block/deflection/whatever) for a second before you
either clinch or hit him while he is peddling backwards. You are in
closing range if you are closing against him/her or if he/she is
closing against you. Similarly, Takedowns and Throws Range only
happens for a second, and is something that is done in transition
from the standing clinch to the ground.
After doing #1, students should be able to long-range spar, no
closing.
After doing #2 and #3, students should be able to spar long range,
plus closing and stopping the fight once a clinch is secure.
After doing #4, and #5, students should be able to spar and set the
"rules" for themselves. Sparring is not mandatory, but it's there if
the student wants it, and these 5 steps should help someone to feel
fairly comfortable, from there they work the next step, some
different things.
My personal strategy is to fight at the outside, and if I can't take
him out there, to close and hit him, but if he is good at countering
the close, to keep in clinch and punish him till he either gives up,
I can trap and continue striking him, or till I can open us up a
little to hit him. If he has a strong clinch structure, then it's
down to the ground we go for good positioning and either submission
or strikes, ex: scarf hold and 15-17 punyos to the face will do
nicely.
Last edited by stick77; 01-16-2003, 03:54 AM.
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